🇺🇸 US · figures as of 2026-06
Building Wealth

Compound Interest Calculator

See how a starting amount plus regular contributions grows over time — and how much of the final total is your own money versus compound interest. All calculations run privately in your browser.

Your plan
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Future value

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calculating…
You contribute
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total paid in
Interest earned
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growth on top
Final balance
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after the full term

Balance by year

Why most of the total is growth

The split above is the point of this calculator. Over a long enough period the returns exceed everything you paid in, often by a wide margin — and the crossover comes later than people expect, which is why so many give up before it.

For the first several years contributions dominate and progress looks linear and slow. The curve only bends once the balance is large enough that a year's return exceeds a year's contributions. Nothing changes at that moment except that the arithmetic starts working for you rather than alongside you.

Time beats amount, and it is not close

Years enter the calculation as an exponent; the contribution does not. That asymmetry is why money invested at 25 with forty years to run typically ends up worth several times the same money invested at 45 with twenty — despite being the identical sum.

The practical consequence is that starting small now beats waiting until you can start properly. The years you spend waiting are the most valuable ones in the whole calculation, because they are the ones compounding on top of everything else.

Real returns, not nominal ones

A projection at a nominal rate produces a large and flattering figure that buys considerably less than it appears to. If you want an answer in today's money — which is what you want for a goal like retirement or a house — use an inflation-adjusted rate. Historically that has meant something in the region of 5–7% for a portfolio weighted towards equities, against a nominal 8–10%.

Fees deserve the same treatment, because they compound too. A percentage point of annual charges does not cost you a percentage point; over thirty years it can remove a fifth or more of the final balance. It is the input people examine least and one of the few they fully control.

What a smooth curve hides

Real returns arrive unevenly — good years, flat years and sharp falls — so treat the output as a central estimate rather than a forecast. The average may hold over decades while any particular decade misses it badly.

That matters most near the end. A fall five years before you need the money is far more damaging than the same fall twenty-five years out, which is the argument for reducing risk as a target approaches rather than at a fixed age. Past returns are not a guarantee of future ones, so it is worth running a lower rate as well and seeing what still works.

Method: standard compound-interest projection — your balance compounds at the chosen frequency while contributions are added each period. "Interest" is growth on top of everything you put in. Returns are not guaranteed and are shown before inflation and tax; a realistic long-run real return is lower than nominal. General information, not financial advice. Disclaimer →

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Frequently asked questions

How does compound interest actually work?
Returns earn returns. In year one you earn a return on what you put in; in year two you earn it on your contributions plus the previous year’s growth, and so on. Over short periods the effect is small and easy to dismiss. Over decades it dominates: on a long enough horizon, most of the final balance is growth rather than the money you paid in.
Does compounding frequency make much difference?
Far less than people expect. Moving from annual to monthly compounding at the same nominal rate changes the outcome by a fraction of a percent a year. The rate itself, the amount you contribute, and above all the number of years each matter enormously more, which is why comparing accounts on compounding frequency is usually a distraction.
Why does starting earlier matter more than saving more?
Because time enters the calculation as an exponent and the contribution does not. Money invested at 25 has forty years to compound; the same amount at 45 has twenty, and typically ends up worth a small fraction as much. This is why a smaller amount started early frequently beats a larger amount started late.
Should I use a nominal or a real return rate?
If you want the answer in today’s money — which is usually what you want for a goal like retirement — use a real, inflation-adjusted rate. A nominal projection produces a larger and more flattering number that buys less than it appears to. Past returns do not guarantee future ones, so it is worth testing a lower rate as well.

Data reference (United States): Standard compound-interest formula; illustrative default inputs · figures as of 2026-06 · Compiled from official public sources via AI-assisted research; latest available data, not individually verified - general information, not advice.. See our methodology for how every figure is sourced and dated.

🔒 Calculations run 100% in your browser — we never see your numbers 📊 Built on primary-source data (see references above) 🔄 Reviewed 2026 · methodology · disclaimer